Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Aqua Universalis & Aqua Celestia -Laundry fresh loves – 7/10.
Isn’t Francis Kurkdjian supposed to be composing for Dior now? It’s almost the end of March, and still nothing. They sure are taking their time releasing something. It seems to have been an age since the announcement came out that he was taking over the reins from Francois Demachy. Though, I’m hopeful this may be a good thing, as they take their time to carefully craft a new masterpiece that lives up to the perfume legacy of the once-great designer. In the meantime, there are plenty of his other compositions to run under the Leave No Cologne Unturned microscope. This past summer was warm, and as a result, two scents I turned to plenty of times were Aqua Universalis and Aqua Celestia. They’re much-maligned, but I find them expertly crafted, albeit overpriced compositions.
Aqua Universalis is the easiest of easy wears. Unwavering freshness (well, at least for a couple of hours). The combined effects of the white florals, musks, and citruses are akin to a walk along the sand on a warm summer’s day in a crisp linen shirt. It’s a high-quality citrus with lemon, bergamot, some clean green florals of lily of the valley, a touch of cedar, and a heavy dose of clean musk in the base. Is it an essential purchase? Without doubt, no. However, it is a refreshing “Sprite” like scent that works well when the temperature rises.
Perhaps, Aqua Celestia is the more interesting of the two. However, it’s still a simple combination of sparkling lime, herbal mint, and tart blackcurrant with a powdered undercurrent of mimosa. Comparisons with mojitos and other such delights are warranted. Aqua Celestia is a fragrance that perfectly evokes its inspiration of the bond between the sky and sea. In particular, the mimosa acting as the puffy clouds and the sparkling seas represented by the citric notes and icy musk. Furthermore, the interaction between the ice-cold musk’s and hazy powdered mimosa with the fresh citrus and fruity notes ensures this one lasts a little longer on my skin than Aqua Universalis.
Aqua Celestia and Aqua Universalis are the antitheses of complex. In fact, they both come in a laundry detergent, which probably tells you all you need to know. But, they are really good smelling “laundry detergent” perfumes. Despite that, there is no way I’d pay full retail for this scent style. The bottles I own I purchased with discounts. They are the 35ml smaller bottles, which are relatively easy to blaze through in a summer of high humidity.
Quick Notes:
Launch Year: Aqua Universalis (2009) & Aqua Celestia (2017).
Perfumer: Francis Kurkdjian.
Aqua Universalis Notes: Lily of the Valley, Amalfi lemon, bergamot, musk, orange blossom, orange, woody notes.
Aqua Celestia Notes: Lime, mint, blackcurrant, neroli, mimosa, green notes, rose, musk.
Longevity: 4-5 hours maximum.
Projection: 1 hour, light.
Season: Summer.
Price: 35ml, $158AUD. 70ml, $263AUD. 200ml, $515AUD.
Alternatives: Mugler Cologne, Dior Homme Cologne, Serge Lutens L’Eau, ELDO Exit the King, Frederic Malle Outrageous.
Have you tried the MFK Aqua perfumes? What’s your favourite MFK?
Note: All photos by me.