Frederic Malle – L’Eau d’Hiver – Jean-Claude Ellena’s Magnum Opus? 9/10
Jean-Claude Ellena has had a long and illustrious career. Assuredly, one of my favourite perfumers. He officially retired in 2016, handing over the reins of Hermes to Christine Nagel. His legacy is etched in perfume history, with his signature minimalist style evident in many of his greatest creations. Over the years he has worked for many designers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Bulgari, and of course, Hermes. In 2000 he started his own niche label, The Different Company, and over time has worked on several compositions for one of the first niche houses, Frederic Malle. L’Eau d’Hiver, one of the least known perfumes from the Malle portfolio, is the subject of my review today.
Ellena’s, L’Eau d’Hiver is his heliotrope homage to Guerlain’s Après L’Ondée, and is one of my favourites from the house. It doesn’t smell precisely like the classic Guerlain, but its lineage can be traced back to that composition. Despite translating to “Winter Water,” L’Eau d’Hiver is versatile enough to be worn year-round. Sheer, understated, clean, and crisp, very much bearing the JCE signature brushstroke, translucent touch.
L’Eau d’Hiver’s balmy, almost lotion-like opening gives a relaxed, serene feeling right off the bat. However, the lotion soon turns powdery as iris enter the fray. The combined effects of the heliotrope’s creamy almond/vanilla facets against the balmy, powdery iris bring an almost icy coolness to proceedings. Somehow, Ellena manages to conjure up the impression of falling snow in perfume form. I moved to Australia when I was six, but the opening here brings me back to my childhood memories of growing up in the Scottish Highlands and the brisk air of a snowy winter’s day. Fresh and invigorating.
L’Eau d’Hiver never becomes a cloying cloud despite the powdery aspect, as Ellena interweaves lighter, fresher notes of angelica, hedione, and citrus zests into the mix. These delicate notes add a welcome burst of brightness and sparkle amongst the purples, whites, and greys of the two main floral notes. The earthy rootiness of angelica is particularly noticeable.
Ellena then uses warming sweeter notes to provide further contrast. Some honey and caramel over the top – more a spritz than a syrupy heaping. Consequently, L’Eau d’Hiver never becomes too saccharine and never strays into the gourmand domain. Hazy musks eventually begin to appear around the fringes. After a few hours, the pale florals recede ever so slightly and slowly into the background, and the musks take over like a comforting winter blanket.
L’Eau d’Hiver doesn’t have any rough edges. It’s everything one would hope for from a premium brand such as Frederic Malle. Jean-Claude Ellena was undoubtedly at the top of his game when he composed this one. No surprise then that he became the in-house perfumer at Hermes the very next year. Despite all his subsequent accomplishments at Hermes and beyond, I am hard-pressed to find a scent I enjoy more from the master than L’Eau d’Hiver.
Quick Notes:
Launch Year: 2003.
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Top notes: Bergamot zest, angelica, hedione, honey, heliotrope, musk and iris.
Longevity: 6-8 hours maximum.
Projection: 2-3 hours medium.
Season: The “Winter Water” is perfect to wear all year round.
Price: 50ml EDP $245AUD. 100ml EDP $350AUD.
Alternatives: Guerlain Après l’Ondée, Prada Infusion d’Iris, Zoologist, Dragonfly.
Have you tried L’Eau d’Hiver and what’s your favourite from Jean-Claude Ellena?
Note: All photos by me.