Best Perfumes of 2021

As we reach the end of the year, it’s time to reflect on another busy 12 months in perfume. My synopsis of the year, in general, could have been a cut and paste from last year. COVID is still hanging around, new variants popping up, but the vaccines offer possible rays of hope. Here’s hoping for a better year in health in 2022 for the entire world. Perfume releases came thick and fast as always, and much like last year, it wasn’t easy to get out into the stores to try everything, but I’ve done my best to compile a list of my favourites.

Chanel – Le Lion – One could argue that it first appeared in 2020, but I didn’t get my nose on it till January this year, so it makes the list. Le Lion filled the amber void in the Les Exclusifs collection. Dusty citruses, burnt birchy leather, and a dry copper-like amber accord combined to produce a worthy addition to the elegant line. This delayed Chanel was most certainly worth the wait.

Diptyque – Orpheon –  The inspiration behind Orpheon was the scent of a bar in the Saint Germain Quarter of Paris in the ’60s. The only resemblance to a bar I picked up was the burst of juniper in the opening, which hinted at gin and tonic, and other libations. If anything, it resembled the powdery, musky Fleur de Peau, with some added green touches. Still, an intriguing release from the French brand. Orpheon makes the cut.

Dolce & Gabbana – Light Blue Forever Pour Homme – One of the surprise packets of the year. An absolute revelation from a line I’ve never enjoyed. The leading light was grapefruit, and for once, it worked. It was equal parts tart and sweet but never as synthetic as the rest of the line. Not quite photorealistic, but not too far away. The violet leaf and ozonic notes were well-judged and enhanced the freshness, never straying into the dreaded metallic territory. The vetiver, woods, and musks in the base held the whole thing together for a reasonable amount of time, especially for a freshie. Good work. 

Frederic Malle – Synthetic Jungle – It was a long wait for this one, but it delivered in spades. From the bracing green opening to the loud, sharp floral heart, down to the damp mossy/patchouli base, Anne Flipo seemed to channel 70’s green classics such as Chanel No.19 and Estee Lauder’s Private Collection. Similarities with French Lover and Rose & Cuir from the Malle collection were also evident. To me, the overriding impression was more of a steamy greenhouse than a jungle, though. 

Grandiflora – Saskia – A beautiful scent from the Australian florist with gardenia at the forefront. It smells like you’ve walked into a flower shop, which was indeed the brief brand owner Saskia Havekes gave perfumer Christophe Laudamiel. The wet, ozonic feel of the surrounding air of the shop skilfully recreated using violet leaf and a petrichor accord. Supporting notes of ylang-ylang, mimosa, and hyacinth give the perfume added floral lift. There’s even a touch of ginger for extra zest. Such a shame it will be the brand’s last perfume, but this and the five others in the line are undoubtedly worth checking out. 

Issey Miyake – A Drop d’Issey – My favourite feminine marketed release of the year. A Drop d’Issey was a bright lilac with creamy almond and vanilla in the base. It brought to mind the Frederic Malle classic, En Passant. Musky, clean, and powdery, but never screechy. Such an adorable bottle too.

Kilian – L’Heure Verte –   L’Heure Verte is another one that took me by surprise, as the others had underwhelmed me in this line. The comparisons with Lolita Lempicka au Masculin were warranted. L’Heure Verte took some of its style cues from the Annick Menardo classic. It had the licorice anise bite of that scent, but the Lolita felt heavier, containing all sorts of edible notes, i.e., tonka, praline, and vanilla, etc. The green absinthe and the aromatic feel of the woods in the Kilian added a point of difference and some greater versatility. There was still something undeniably sweet/earthy and edible in the underlying notes of L’Heure Verte, perhaps due to the indulgent combination of vanilla and patchouli.

Masque Milano – Lost Alice – A fantastic gourmand from the Italian house inspired by the Alice in Wonderland Tea Party. The requisite Earl Grey tea accord working in combination with the milky, crumbly nuttiness of the carrot cake accord to transport one straight to the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. Orris, broom, sandalwood, and ambrette provided more than enough contrast and layers to ensure Lost Alice never strayed into ditzy, sweet gourmand territory.

Milano Fragranze – Basilica – At the time of writing, this is the only one on the list that I purchased a full bottle. That must say something. It was the clear standout from the Milano Fragranze line. Basilica was a herbal incense with a subtle milky gourmand twist. The perfect scent for year-round wear, but I envisage a lot of wear this summer. 

Tom Ford – Ombre Leather Parfum – Not a bad year for the brand. Soleil Brulant could’ve made this list. But, ultimately, I’ve gone with Ombre Leather Parfum. The Parfum was more enjoyable and wearable than the original 2018 release, which seemed to hum along at the same monotonous tune for its entirety. The darkness of the original giving way to a brighter heart. Sonia Constant opened up this composition, offering the notes more room to breathe. The florals accented. Ozonic violet leaf injecting the Parfum with that slight hint of gasoline and rough and ready edge ala Fahrenheit. Some of the softer florals of jasmine and orris provided interesting lift and contrast. The woody, smoky trail of the base sent it out on a fitting note. 

Notables

Two perfumes that just missed out on my list were Hermes H24 and Parfum d’Empire, Mal-Aimé. With H24, Christine Nagel commendably ditched the popular amber woods of recent mens’ designer scents. Instead, H24 was herbal and metallic. The innovative steam iron clean effect, against a fougere framework, hinted at a possible new direction in the “Fragrance Game”. Mal-Aimé, on the other hand, continued the “Green” revival that seemed to prevail in 2021. The combination of blackberry, nettle, thistle, and orris evocative of a walk through an overgrown garden of a mysterious manor in the countryside.

Some things I would love to have tried include the new vanilla flanker to Guerlain’s Shalimar, Chanel’s Edimbourg, Comme des Garcons Rouge and Naomi Goodsir’s Corpus Equus. I have a sneaky suspicion that some of these may have made my list. Alas, too much perfume, not enough time. A notable absence from my list is Dior. I thought they had a poor year. It will be interesting to see if Francis Kurkdjian injects some life into the brand. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all.

What fragrances made your best of list?

Note: Bottle images courtesy of Google.