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Mini Reviews – Guerlain

Les Absolus d'Orient Santal Royal Guerlain for women and men

Guerlain – Santal Royal – Hyped, but not much to write home about 4/10.

I’ve tried with all my might to love this one from Guerlain. But, effort after effort and sample after sample results in disappointment. It seems to be the most popular fragrance in this line. I can’t quite work out why. Undoubtedly, the rose/oud combo had already been played out many times prior to this perfume being released in 2014. And, despite this being a Guerlain, it doesn’t offer anything that sets it apart from the pack. The lack of originality aside, the scratchy, abrasive woods in the base are where things completely fall apart. Santal Royal doesn’t feel very opulent or regal. The sandalwood smells cheap and synthetic and hardly befitting of a Guerlain. It feels like one of the weaker scents in the collection. It’s loud and lasts all day on skin. I can scarcely believe its popularity.

Guerlain – Habit Rouge Dress Code – Brilliant modern flanker of a classic 8/10.

Habit Rouge, the quintessential masculine from the French house, is a bonafide hall of fame scent. I don’t think any of the flankers come close to matching its perfection. I still don’t. However, Dress Code is a brilliant modern iteration with a sweet gourmand twist. Some of the hallmarks of the original are present. The rose, leather, and vanilla are front and centre. The fizzy citruses, though, make way for a nutty caramel-like praline accord, which is very well composed and thankfully not overly sweet. The scent is powdery, but not to the extent of the original.

With Dress Code, Guerlain succeeds in creating a mature gourmand. The playful aspects of the praline accord, tempered by the leather and rose facets. It’s always commendable when a brand can release a flanker to a classic without losing the essence of the original. Wasser did a great job here. So, why did you discontinue it, Guerlain?

Have you tried either of these Guerlain scents?

Note: Bottle images courtesy of Google.

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