Mini Reviews – Atelier des Ors

Ah, the golden flake bottles. Instagram worthy, most certainly. However, are they worthy additions to a burgeoning fragrance collection? Let’s put a few under the microscope.

Atelier des Ors – Lune Feline – Hyped vanilla. Not sure I buy into it. 5/10

The hyped Lune Feline failed to make much of an impression on me. It’s a spicy, burnt vanilla with a screechy woody note that grates. The spiced opening of cardamom, cinnamon, and pepper is pleasing enough. It takes a turn for the worse when the scratchy woods and resins begin to mingle with the spices and the vanilla. It feels a tad screechy for something at this aspirational price range. Furthermore, I can’t help but feel this scent DNA has been played out a million times before. Things like By the Fireplace, Vanille Paradoxe and Musc Ravageur inhabit a similar scent spectrum. I’m not sure Lune Feline brings enough new ideas to the table. Bear in mind, though, vanilla isn’t my favourite note, so perhaps sample first and take my review with a grain of salt.

Atelier des Ors – Bois Sikar – Yip, not for me. 2/10

Bois Sikar is a scrubber for me. Bois Sikar, as the name insinuates, is a smoky, woody scent. It leans far too heavily on the smoky side for my taste, however. I ended up smelling of clothing the morning after campfire smoke had covered it. Basted barbecue meat isn’t too far from the mark either. It’s very similar to the Naomi Goodsir scent Bois d’Ascese which I also did not take to. If you’re looking for a fragrance that may repel all around you and assist with social distancing, this may be it. I like the scent of barbecue meat, just don’t want to walk around smelling like it.

Atelier des Ors – Rouge Saray – Middle Eastern dessert bottled. 8/10

Now here’s an idea I can get behind. Rouge Saray is a deliciously decadent mix of plum, cinnamon, heliotrope, and dates. The combined effects of the plums and cinnamon giving off a spicy, boozy feeling. Smoky and nutty aspects are prominent also. Perhaps the smoke comes from the guaiac woods in the base. The nutty/almond effect may be the influence of the heliotrope. Whatever the case, Rouge Saray is a morish gourmand that doesn’t shy away from piling on the calories. It’s sweet. The clever use of dates, imparting a sugary, syrup-like blanket over proceedings bringing the Middle Eastern inspiration behind Rouge Saray to bear. The vanillic base further adds to the sweetness.

Atelier des Ors – Cuir Sacre – Suave stuff 8/10

Cuir Sacre is an oh so suave mix of cedar, vetiver, and leather. A sprinkling of cardamom and a veil of incense adds depth and interest. Cypress imparts a smoky touch. If you’re a fan of scents like Lalique Encre Noire or Gucci Guilty Absolute, give this one a spin. Cuir Sacre has more leather than the Lalique and is not as dry and might be more appealing to some noses than the Gucci. The use of cardamom, saffron, and juniper works elegantly in tandem with the woods, leather, and vetiver. Nice work.

Conclusion

There are several other scents in the range, with the woody Iris Fauve being one of the best. However, I think Rouge Saray and Cuir Sacre are the two standouts. Lune Feline, Bois Sikar, and Rouge Saray last over 8 hours on my skin with excellent projection. Cuir Sacre is more transparent and consequently is gone within 6 hours. All the perfumes are composed by Marie Salamagne.

Notes: Bottle images courtesy of Google. I purchased the samples of Lune Feline, Rouge Saray, and Bois Sikar at Peony Melbourne. The sample of Cuir Sacre was kindly provided to me by my Instagram friend Tete @niche_rare_fragrances. Thanks for the sample, Tete.