I was fortunate enough to be invited to Masque Milano’s latest fragrance launch, held on Saturday, 3 April. Early Sunday morning if you factor in the time difference with Australia. As is the norm these days with many things, we did it virtually. Along with 100 other perfumistas, I joined Masque Milano founders Alessandro Brun, Riccardo Tedeschi, and perfumer Mackenzie Reilly for a rundown on their new release, “Lost Alice .” Before the live event, Masque Milano sent each of us a package containing the fragrance’s main notes and accords, plus a vial containing the final product itself. Masque Milano included milk candies and an Earl Grey teabag to eat and drink as we sampled the scent, further enhancing the sensory experience.
Lost Alice (part of the “Opera collection), themed around the Mad Hatter’s tea party from Alice in Wonderland, is a gourmand that took over two years to complete. I’m not a huge gourmand fan, but I’m pleased to report the final fragrance isn’t overly sweet and is something I could see myself wearing.
During the live unveiling, we sampled two florals that went into Lost Alice. Orris (flower two vial), one of the more expensive raw materials, acts to give the scent an elegant buttery texture. Broom absolute (flower one vial) smells like yeast or beer and provides the carrot cake accord more fullness and depth. I believe both counteract the sweetness of the gourmand notes. They give the scent a more mature vibe than one would generally associate with your average gourmand.
The magic vial contains the carrot cake accord. Crumbly, nutty, and a true gourmand delight. The mad vial houses the Earl Grey tea accord, which provides a fresh bright opening to the scent. This accord is comprised of notes of bergamot, English tea, clary sage, and in an ode to the Mad Hatter’s tea party, a hefty dose of pepper.
The final vial, Tea Party, brings everything together. We end up with an enigmatic gourmand that is hard to pin down. It isn’t overly sweet and has woody, musky and floral aspects that balance everything beautifully. The buttery orris is the most prominent floral, the tea brings a freshness, and the woods and musk base a creamy milky conclusion. The cake accord, being the centrepiece, brings a crumbly nutty deliciousness to proceedings. I’d wear that accord on its own.
Below is the full note breakdown. I have a couple of scents based on a tea party theme. Tea for Two by L’Artistan Parfumeuer and Five O’Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens. Lost Alice doesn’t smell like either and brings something entirely new to the table. I have to say, judging by the positive response from the live, I think Masque Milano has a hit on their hands with Lost Alice. Bravo to all involved.
Note Breakdown
“SMELL ME” (Head Notes)
Bergamot, Ambrette Seed LMR, Clary Sage France LMR,
Too Much Black Pepper*
“DRINK ME” (Heart Notes)
Carrot Heart LMR, Orris Concrete LMR, English Tea,
White Roses (Painted Red)
“EAT ME” (Bottom Notes)
Sandalwood India LMR, Broom Absolute Italy LMR,
Fleur de Lait (Steamed Milk Accord)
Note: Photos taken by me. Bottle image of Lost Alice courtesy of Masque Milano.