Another day another buzz brand. French brand Les Indemodables, launched in 2016, has been causing some major ripples on social media of late. I’ve seen them everywhere, mostly with rave reviews behind them. I recently sampled their line that takes classic, timeless scent structures and gives them a modern update. I must say, I’m very impressed—my brief thoughts on each of them below.
Chypre Azural is a bright, sparkling, life-affirming, photo-realistic orange that combines with a herbal tarragon note, bringing to mind the Hermes classic, Eau d’Orange Verte. Now and again, a pale, watery rose flickers in and out before the patchouli/amber dry down closes proceedings out on an elegant note.
Vanille Havane is a powerful combination of boozy rum, vanilla, leather, and tobacco. Cacao and dried fruits emphasise the perfume’s edible facet. It’s a rich, decadent, gourmand lovers delight. As a result of the heavier notes, Vanille Havane is a more complex, long-lasting blend than most of the rest of the brand’s output. Superb.
Cuir de Chine highlights the leathery and apricot facets of osmanthus. An ethereal perfume with a backbone of clary sage and jasmine. A faint hint of tobacco lingers but never becomes overbearing. Shades of apricot iced tea with this combination of notes. Fans of the Hermes scent, Osmanthe Yunnan, will undoubtedly enjoy Cuir de Chine.
I’m not entirely convinced by Fougere Emeraude, a perfume dominated by tuberose and powdery mimosa. The lavender and clary sage feels a little muted under the floral notes. The moniker on the bottle never plays out on my skin. I wanted more lavender.
I adore the use of smoky myrrh in Oriental Velours. It doesn’t become overly churchy, but it complements the powdery amber and vanillic dry down quite beautifully. A hint of green from spruce and vetiver peeks out occasionally to keep things interesting. I don’t pick up any of the jasmine.
Rose de Jamal is a well-balanced rose. Neither too jammy or too dewy fresh. The peppery touch reminded me of Moschino Toy Boy of all things. However, Rose de Jamal feels a little more expansive. Mint casts a bitter, aromatic, mentholated effect over the rose. Over time, cedar and powdery lavender encroach, keeping things classy.
It’s not easy making a musk scent interesting. Les Indemodables managed to do so with Musc des Sables. The combination of orris, mandarin, ambergris, patchouli, cinnamon, and benzoin is an enveloping, creamy, powdery delight. Subtle but long-lasting. The citrus undertone gives it a little bit of an orange creamsicle vibe.
The multitude of yellow florals (mimosa and ylang-ylang) in Iris Perle provide a bright, heady canvas for the iris to shine. Iris Perle contains grand cru orris absolute – apparently, the world’s most expensive extract. Powdery, earthy, and waxy aspects of the iris all evident in seemingly equal measure. The ylang-ylang gives the perfume an unexpected, exotic, tropical vibe.
Husband and wife team Remi and Valérie Pulvérail, in tandem with perfumers Antoine Lie and Florence Fouillet Dubois, have curated a brilliant collection. The quality of craftsmanship and materials is high. The major downside is pricing, which for 50ml fragrances ranges from 190 euro to 210 euro a bottle. My favourites are Vanille Havane, Chypre Azural and Musc des Sables. The truth be told, they are all worth a try; there is something for everyone. Timeless creations indeed. Whether they are worth the high price tag will be a personal matter for you to decide.
Shoutout to my Instagram friend, Tete @niche_rare_fragrances, for sending me the samples. I always appreciate it.
Have you tried the brand? Did you have a favourite?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of Google and Les Indemodables website.