It’s Australia Day here today, the 26th of January, so time to turn the spotlight on a couple of independent Australian brands that I’ve recently sampled. Three perfumes, in particular, have left me with positive first impressions. Anka Kus, the brainchild of Ali Erkekli (previously known as Al Manlé) is based in Melbourne, and Criminal Elements, founded by Corey Newcombe, is based now in Adelaide.
Anka Kus – Absinthe Minded – L’Artisan Parfumeur, with their glorious Fou d’Absinthe and Glacialis Terra, has so far been the only brand to do justice to the controversial drink in perfume form. That is until Anka Kus with Absinthe Minded. The herbal top of Absinthe Minded, laced with anise, fennel, and wormwood, gives the perfume a bitter, boozy, green, licorice-like opening. There is a hint of menthol freshness, but it never strays into mouth wash territory. Fou d’Absinthe is a full-on fougere, with a smoky base, but Absinthe Minded merely hints at the fougere. The earthy mossy base, consisting of amber, woody notes, patchouli, and oakmoss, almost giving the scent an aromatic chypre structure. The musks in the base soften the whole composition, but it retains an intriguing air of freshness from top to bottom. Invigorating stuff.
Anka Kus – Jezebel – Out of the seven samples I received in the Anka Kus discovery pack, Jezebel was my favourite. It’s a delicious gourmand rose, that opens with a fruity accord of pear and what I perceive to be cherry. Dark chocolate combines with the fruity accord and eventually rose, vanilla, and tonka bean evoking black forest cake. Delicious and decadent. The rose and chocolate are the dominant notes to my nose. Cleverly it never becomes too sweet or heavy, but it retains a liqueur-like quality that would work beautifully in the cooler months. Fantastic work.
Criminal Elements – Tobacco Jam – Aptly named. More jam than tobacco, though. The raspberry kind. Tobacco Jam is underpinned by a sweet hay and tobacco accord. However, the raspberry jam, sweet and dense, wins out. It smells like a jammy dodger cookie or jam drop. Google them, if you don’t know what they are, they’re quite delicious, and so is this fragrance. As the perfume develops, a suede leather accord comes through, bringing depth and a velvety touch. If longevity is your thing, this one lasts forever. Easily over 12 hours each time I’ve worn it. Apply in moderation, as the sugary nature of the raspberry jam may become cloying.
Have you tried these fragrances?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of Google. I purchased my own samples.