Chanel – Le Lion – Finally, the Les Exclusifs has an amber, and it comes in the form of Le Lion. Gabrielle had an affinity with the lion. Her zodiac sign was Leo, and for her, the lion symbolised strength and courage. It’s also the emblem of one of her favourite cities, Venice. Emblazoned on Chanel creations, ranging from coats to jewellery, it was only a matter of time before Chanel captured the lion in a scent.
I’ve been wearing Le Lion as my scent of the day for the last few days, and I can firmly say it borrows from the Chanel playbook, with a few other reference points thrown in for good measure. I don’t pick up any of the hallmark sparkling aldehydic florals one would associate with Chanel. The initial dusty citrus puff of lemon and bergamot reminds me of Shalimar. Though, the comparisons with Shalimar are only in the opening for me. Le Lion is much airier and less enveloping than the classic Guerlain.
Le Lion’s Chanel lineage is prominent. Distinctive scents such as Coromandel and Cuir de Russie are evident in Le Lion’s development. The burnt, birch, rubbery leather of Cuir de Russie and the resinous, earthy patchouli of Coromandel recognisable. The amber accord is dry and copper-like with a powdery but transparent effect that brings to mind scents such as Ambre Sultan from Serge Lutens and Dior’s Mitzah. Amber scents can sometimes be too sweet or cloying, but I never felt this way with Le Lion. Polge gives all the elements room to breathe. Vanilla, sandalwood, musks and perhaps a touch of incense all take hold from time to time and impart a warming, inviting base that complements the amber accord beautifully.
Chanel’s Le Lion is the first release of 2021 that I have tried. It definitely gets the year off on the right footing. I think lovers of the Les Exclusifs and vintage scents will love Le Lion. Le Lion’s original release was set down for 2020, but it was delayed till this year for obvious reasons. I’d say it was worth the wait—great work by Olivier Polge, and a worthy addition to the line.
Have you tried Le Lion? What did you make of it?
Note: Sample obtained by the author. Bottle image courtesy of Google.