First Impressions – Miller et Bertaux

Miller et Bertaux – Pimiento – Sometimes I look at a note pyramid before I try a scent, and sometimes not. However, when I see things in the note breakdown such as ozonic notes, ambroxan, watery notes, and in the case of Pimiento, modern woods, it usually raises a few red flags. Most modern scents containing one or a combination of these notes tend to smell rather generic on me. Pimiento is billed as a Mexican cocktail, a combo of chili and saffron meeting the freshness of alcohol and ice cubes. The full note breakdown is pimiento (cherry pepper), saffron, clary sage, ginger, geranium, blackberries, modern woods, and crushed ice.

Pimiento is spicy, aromatic, and refreshing, but the combination of the “modern woods” used here makes the scent feel decidedly “department store.” This fragrance could be a flanker from Hugo Boss or Versace. There’s nothing wrong with that, but it isn’t the sort of thing I’d be willing to pay for at niche pricing levels. The closest comparison I can think of for Pimiento would be something like Vodka on the Rocks from Kilian. It has a similar fresh, aromatic, icy effect. Miller et Bertaux is a brand I enjoy, but Pimiento is a disappointment.

Miller et Bertaux – Tulsivivah! – Tulsivivah! with an exclamation mark, restores my faith in the brand. The fragrance takes inspiration from the Holy Basil festival in India and the Tulsi plant’s symbolic marriage to the Hindu god, Shaligram or Vishnu. It signifies the end of the monsoon and the beginning of the wedding season. The lemongrass opening feels natural, and in combination with the basil and tulsi, a grassy herbal plant similar to basil, it creates a refreshing herbal tea like effect. The creamy, buttery sandalwood dry down with a hint of coconut works wonderfully in the warm weather. It’s a unique, uncomplicated offering that is well worth a sniff. Fantastic.

Miller et Bertaux – Indian Study / Santal +++ – If you’re a sandalwood fan, Indian Study is one to check out. It’s spicy, dry, and dusty. The varnish accord is evocative of a carpenters workshop, or a room with a freshly sanded floor. The spice in dry down isn’t overwhelming and comes from cumin and curry. The cumin doesn’t come across as body odour. Amyris injects a hint of freshness, and massoia adds a slight creamy vibe. The sandalwood dominates, though. It’s Indian Mysore sandalwood, which is the highest quality variant of the sandalwoods. It’s relaxing, soothing, warming, and introspective. Perfect for any time of the year. It lasts over 8 hours. Impressive.

Note: Bottle images courtesy of Google. I sampled the perfumes at Libertine Parfumerie in Brisbane.