A quick history lesson, because the Lubin backstory is utterly fascinating. The house has been around for over 200 years, founded after the French Revolution by Pierre Francois Lubin, making it one of the world’s oldest perfume houses. Lubin had plied his trade under the tutelage of Jean Louis Fargeon, a renowned Parisian perfumer who served Marie-Antoinette no less. In time, Lubin left Paris for Grasse, and worked under famed Italian perfume maker, Tombarelli. He eventually opened his first boutique in Paris in 1798.
Lubin provided scented ribbons, masks, and rice powder to the fashionable Parisian subset the “Incroyables” and “Les Merveilleuses” and won the patronage of Napolean’s Imperial Court. He became their official perfumer. Clients such as Empress Josephine, Marie-Therese (Marie-Antoinette’s only surviving child), and Alexander I of Russia ensured the house continued to thrive. This prosperity lasting well into the middle of the 20th Century. However, by the ’80s, the house had slipped into obscurity. In the last couple of decades, Lubin has been brought out of decline by former creative director at Guerlain, Gilles Thevenin, becoming one of the leading lights of niche perfumery today.
Lubin – Brittany Breeze – A decent marine scent……for once. 7/10
Perhaps I like this one as it doesn’t overdose on the calone, like many other marine fragrances. Nor does it become salty. It almost feels you are walking by the river with the wind in your face, enjoying the scent of the surrounding landscape. Herbal and floral notes abound. Mint, artemisia, violet, thyme, lavender, and galbanum build a convincing, aromatic bridge to the woody, mossy base. You won’t feel like you’ve just left the beach with this one. It’s classy and goes perfectly paired with a white linen shirt. Brittany Breeze lasts 4 hours with moderate projection. Good work.
Lubin – Attique – Powdery, floral fig. 6.5/10
In my estimation, Attique falls slightly short of the benchmark figs, Philosykos and Premier Figuier, but it is a well-composed scent. There is an emphasis on the whole fig tree. The leaves, fruit, and wood of the fig tree are all distinguishable. What sets this one apart from Philosykos and Premier Figuier is the inclusion of a jasmine note. The white floral dominates during the middle phase of the scent before the woody, fig base comes through towards the latter part of the Attique’s development. The jasmine isn’t bombastic but feels green and fresh. Due to its prominence, I think you need to enjoy jasmine to appreciate this scent. It performs well with 6-8 hours of longevity, an admirable feat for a fresh fragrance. If you struggle with Philosykos and Premier Figuier, Attique might be worth a sample.
Lubin – Idole EdP – Boozy Goodness 8.5/10
A striking bottle for a beautiful fragrance. I loved the bottle and the original, sadly now discontinued EDT from 2005. The EDP, released six years later, doesn’t disappoint. Idole opens with a sweet, spicy citrus zing courtesy of orange peel. A boozy rum accord accompanies the orange, with the rum remaining prominent throughout the scent’s life. The inclusion of saffron amplifies a leather accord. A veil of smoke, from incense and olibanum, creates a sense of intrigue. It’s a smooth blend that offers everything one would want in an EDP. It stays true to the original but rounds out the rougher edges. Sugar and amber inject a good deal of sweetness into the mix. Woody notes provide a strong backbone that ensures this version is thicker and more persistent on the skin than the EDT. Still, this whispers, and never shouts. Olivia Giacobetti has crafted a brilliant perfumed snapshot evoking the mystery, experience, and excitement of travelling through an exotic destination. I’m rather fond of Idole.
Lubin – Korrigan – Caramel Woods. 8.5/10
Korrigan is another scent from Lubin that has a boozy component. It’s not overdone, though. Whiskey and cognac give the perfume an oaky, fruity, malty feel. Smoky leather and comforting musk mallow provide texture and contrast. The best part of Korrigan is the drydown. The combined effects of the notes giving Korrigan a milky, vanillic, creamy caramel quality that is quite addictive. Woody notes preventing the sweetness from ever becoming cloying. Thomas Fontaine seems to have struck a perfect balance between the notes, ensuring nothing dominates, making Korrigan magical and multi-faceted. It lingers on the skin all day—a fragrance for a night’s out and special occasions. I highly recommend it.
Do you know these fragrances? Do you have a favourite from Lubin?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of Google.