Olfactive Studio – Chypre Shot – The union of one of my favourite perfumers, Bertrand Duchaufour, and one of my favourite niche houses, Olfactive Studio, seemed like the perfect marriage. However, much like the two others I’ve tried in this series, Vanilla Shot and Leather Shot, this one leaves me a little cold. There seems to be too much going on, and competing for attention when I spray it on skin. The spiced cardamom at the top dominates throughout. Still, it competes with amber, a leathery saffron note, bitter coffee, tea, pepper, peony, and the chypre backbone of oakmoss, patchouli, and citrus. It all sounds good on paper, but becomes a little chaotic on the skin. The coffee and tea drive it into semi-gourmand territory, with the coffee being the most prominent, before the dark, earthy, mossy dry down takes hold. I applaud Olfactive Studio for doing something a little different with the genre, and I can see why people would like it, but I wish it wasn’t so thick and had a bit more room to breathe. Despite the dark, heavy notes, it only lasted 4 hours before fading.
Olfactive Studio – Panorama – Fortunately, we have the innovative verdancy of Panorama, which I’ve recently reacquainted myself with after first sampling it a few years ago in 2015 when it first launched. So, technically this isn’t a first impression. Panorama is built around fresh cut grass, fig leaf, galbanum, smoke, and a spicy wasabi accord. The spiced wasabi accord at the top is truly unique, and I wish it lasted a little longer. However, it’s a small gripe, and the contrast between the fresh green top notes, the resins, sweet vanilla, tonka, and myrrh in the base makes for a fascinating journey. I highly recommend trying it if you’re looking for a slightly quirky take on freshness. Clement Gavarry is the perfumer.
Have you tried these scents, or this house? Do you have a favourite?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of Olfactive Studio