Dior – Ambre Nuit – Ambery Perfection, Hmmm not quite, but close 9.5/10
I don’t hand out the perfect 10’s too often in my reviews, Ambre Nuit comes close but doesn’t quite get there. Oh, why so mean, Daniel? Well, it has one shortcoming that I’ll explain later in my evaluation. I’ll preface my review by stating it’s my favourite in the line, a collection, except for a couple of releases that’s descended into mediocrity in recent years.
Ambre Nuit opens with a burst of fizzing citruses, bergamot, and grapefruit to be precise. The sun warmed citric opening doesn’t last long, but the scent never loses any of its sparkle. There’s an almost bubbly cola, verging on boozy undertone that develops on skin that I find extremely enjoyable. The pink pepper used in Ambre Nuit further adds to the fizzy feel and gives the perfume a spicy edge.
The two main stars in Ambre Nuit are the rose and the amber/ambergris. The rose is smoky and dry, not jammy or dewy. The dryness of the rose ensures Ambre Nuit remains perfectly unisex. There’s a powdery aspect to the rose, but it never falls into “Cosmetics” territory. Even though the rose is sweeping, it is so well blended, it never becomes overbearing. However, I do think you have to enjoy rose to like this scent. The amber accord is resinous with woody nuances, and there’s a slightly salty ambergris with what I perceive to be a soft patchouli in the base.
Ambre Nuit is a soft, sensual perfume that is relatively linear in development. The ingredients used in the composition are undoubtedly of a superior quality, even the pink pepper and citruses feel a cut above the usual designer fare. It’s masterfully blended, with no sharp edges or surprises, but I think for a higher-end offering, some may perceive it to be too accessible, too easy to wear. True enough, it isn’t an overly complex scent, but sometimes the simple things in life are the best.
Quick Notes:
Launch Year: 2009. Relaunched in 2018.
Perfumer: Francois Demachy.
Top notes: Bergamot, grapefruit.
Heart notes: Rose, pink pepper.
Base notes: Amber, Ambergris.
Longevity: 6 hours maximum.
Projection: 1-2 hours moderate.
Season: Perfect for formal occasions, and I think works best in cooler weather, but no reason why it can’t be worn year round.
Price: 40ml EdP, $150 AUD. 125ml, $320 AUD and for those wanting a bottle that will last them several generations the 250ml comes in at $460 AUD.
Alternatives: MFK Grand Soir, Xerjoff 40 Knots, Dior Mitzah.
Have you tried Ambre Nuit? Do you have a favourite from this line?