BDK – Rouge Smoking – Sweet cherry pie 7/10
Nothing overly smoky about this one, but it is a very well composed cherry/vanilla scent from the French niche line. The combined effects of heliotrope and tonka, giving the fragrance a powdery almond sweetness. Unlike Tom Ford’s Lost Cherry, which played on the syrupy facets of cherry, Rouge Smoking reigns in the heaviness, ensuring the blend never falls into the cliched “cherry cough syrup” territory. It all lies on a cosy bed of skin-hugging cashmeran and musk. Rouge Smoking lasted about 6-8 hours on my skin. Ultimately, though, I prefer Olfactive Studio’s excellent Close Up for my cherry/tobacco/tonka fix.
BDK Creme de Cuir – Fruity leather 6.5/10
The beauty with independent houses is they do not, for the most part, have creative/artistic constraints placed upon them. It all makes for an exciting, engaging olfactory experience.
Creme de Cuir is a fruity, compelling take on leather. Bergamot and pineapple provide a bright opening to the fragrance, before it transitions into a creamy suede, sandalwood mid. The fruity opening still lingering in the background, presenting somewhat of a warm, balmy tropical feel. The leather in the base is soft and never harsh. A leather perfume that’s bordering on gourmand and could work in all conditions. Good lasting power of over 8 hours. Intriguing stuff, but I think many will balk at the pineapple note.
BDK Oud Abramad – I think we’ve seen this movie before 5/10
Boy meets girl. Rose meets oud. Nothing barnyard about this rose/oud combo, but it’s a script we’ve seen a thousand times before. Saffron and incense add mystery, darkness, and depth; however, it doesn’t save this fragrance from being just another in an already crowded genre. A medicinal, smoky mix, made with high-quality ingredients, but not something I’d be reaching for over something like Rose d’Arabie from Armani Prive. The heavier notes ensure this one lasts around 8-10 hours.
BDK Wood Jasmin – Jasmine in unfamiliar surrounds 8.5/10
As I write this review, it’s the middle of winter here in Australia, and anyone that follows me on Instagram knows that I’ve waxed lyrical about Wood Jasmin on a couple of occasions in recent months. Wood Jasmin, is as the name suggests a woody floral, but it’s a jasmine scent wrapped in a cocoon of gourmand delights. Vanillic, woody, resinous Peru balsam, boozy, fruity plum/pear, incense for a touch of smoky mystery, and a honeyed tobacco note to further add to the sweetness. A wonderfully long-lasting syrupy blend that opens resinous and boozy and dry’s down to a smoky vanilla, while the white floral hovers in the background. Jasmine in an unfamiliar setting, but a dessert that will certainly have you coming back for seconds. Superb and perfectly unisex. My favourite scent from the house, with tenacious 10-hour longevity. I highly recommend it for the colder weather.
Have you tried BDK? Do you have a favourite?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of Fragrantica
Great reviews! Rouge Smoking and Wood Jasmin are indeed gorgeous; your description of Wood Jasmin makes me want to test it again. The fig one they have is also nice, although not groundbreaking. The tuberose also!
Thanks for reading and commenting, Tetê. Gris Charnal is quite nice. I agree. I don’t think I’ve tried the tuberose yet.
Wood Jasmin is my favorite. It’s a beautifully blended jasmine with nuances of plum, vanilla, and incense. Perfect date night scent.
Yes, its a rich, deep, dark scent. Thanks for reading and commenting, Ritza.