Hermetica – Darkoud – I reviewed the initial batch of Hermetica scents late last year. I found a few worthy of praise. Cedarise was a well composed earthy, woody scent and Jade 888 was an unusual combination of lily of the valley, ginger and musk. Both scents deserving of further testing. Darkoud was released late last year, and it unfortunately brings nothing new to the table. A table which is already crowded with far too many rose, oud scents. The addition of saffron to rose/oud in Darkoud does nothing different than many of the other heavy hitters in the category. Hermetica already has an oud (Verticaloud) in its collection, so it seems an odd move to add another oud so soon after the initial launch. Hermetica, by my reckoning are about 5-10 years late to the party. Unoriginal.
Penhaligon’s – The Favourite – I didn’t have overly high expectations for The Favourite I must admit. Sure enough it failed to excite, but it is worth sampling. It is a well composed powdery candied violet, iris and mimosa scent with a musky, woody dry down that I’m sure will attract many fans. An easy to wear, fresh, carefree floral that’s very British, very feminine, just not, if you pardon the pun, my favourite.
Essential Parfums – Divine Vanille – Divine Vanille is a vanilla that sits somewhere between Cologne of the Missions and Spiritueuse Double Vanille, price wise and scent wise. There are also shades of Herod in this one too. The prominent tobacco of Herod is not apparent in Divine Vanille and the combo of vanilla, tonka, benzoin and incense isn’t quite as boozy or smoky as the Guerlain. However, it works well. I enjoyed wearing Divine Vanille. The use of osmanthus gives the middle stages of the scent a milky apricot vibe, and the use of cinnamon at the outset adds a nice spicy touch. In addition, a Pomarose molecule adds a dried fruit layer to proceedings. All the notes are well balanced but make no mistake vanilla is the most prominent note. It isn’t cloying or overly foody as I think the use of cedar and patchouli in the base balances things out nicely. The initial batch of scents from the house wasn’t overly exciting, so I’d have to say that Divine Vanille is probably my pick of the Essential Parfums so far. Neat work from Olivier Pescheux.
Have you tested any of these new/newish releases yet?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of Fragrantica