Guerlain – L’Instant Pour Homme – A modern day classic from Guerlain 9/10
The lemon burst at the top of L’Instant Pour Homme Edt may lull one into thinking this may be another anonymous citrus. However, the magic of this Guerlain masterpiece becomes evident half an hour into development, as the lavender, sandalwood, patchouli and cocoa bean shine through and wrap the wearer in a cocoon of perfumed awesomeness. The sophisticated ambrette seed and musk dry-down is the icing on the cake. It’s not a beast mode projector but it will be detectable 8-10 hours after application. By the way, the deodorant and body wash complement the fragrance beautifully. Wear this more versatile EDT whenever you want, in any conditions and you’ll be ready to take on the challenges of the day with renewed vigour.
Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide – Ice cold marine incense 8/10
Ah the L’Eau series from Serge Lutens, much maligned in the fragrance community, but for mine a welcome departure from the heavier offerings from the house. L’Eau Froide (cold water) is the pick of the series for mine, A minty, incense with marine notes and ginger. The notes sound like they shouldn’t mesh, but somehow it all comes together coherently, in a sparkling summer spritzer with a difference. The mint, ginger and aquatic notes, temper the smoky incense and olibanum allowing one to happily spray this scent on the warmest of summer days. I get 5-6 hours of longevity from L’Eau Froide, which perhaps is a touch synthetic or even metallic as it’s musky dry down develops, however it remains, clean, fresh, atypical for Sheldrake and Lutens, but still an eminently wearable anti-perfume.
Byredo – Sunday Cologne – Easy like Sunday morning 7/10
Swedish house, Byredo are an easy entry level niche brand. Typifying the brands minimalist aesthetics, Sunday Cologne is a perfect white tee fragrance. It opens up with bitter bergamot, before star anise and cardamom add spice. Lavender keeps it in fougere territory. Incense adds a smoky calmness before patchouli and vetiver bring it home. Perhaps, a doff of the hat to Terre d’Hermes, specifically in the opening. 5-6 hours longevity, with average projection for the first couple of hours. Mercifully its name was changed from the ridiculous Fantastic Man to Sunday Cologne, a moniker much more befitting of the juice inside, which is an easy wear for any day of the week not just Sunday. For those after something more challenging from the house try M/Mink.
Are you a fan of any of these fragrances?