Reviews – L’Artisan Parfumeur, Atelier Cologne, Frederic Malle, Oscar de la Renta

L’Artisan Parfumeur – Timbuktu – Into the Wild 9/10

A dry, smoky, spicy vetiver that I initially did not like when I first tried it over 10 years ago. The combination of papyrus and vetiver was too dry. I’ve begun to appreciate it more over the years. The smoky nuances of the incense, the fruity facets of the mango, and the somewhat woody, medicinal aspects of the myrrh making for a wonderfully complex blend. I go easy on the sprays, 2 is enough to see me through the day. I like to wear it on cooler winter mornings, but I think it works just as well, if not better on warmer days. Bertrand Duchaufour composed many fragrances for L’Artisan, but none take me on the journey that Timbuktu does. As soon as I spray it on, I know I’m in an unfamiliar place with unfamiliar sights, sounds and smells.

Atelier Cologne – Bergamote Soleil – Fun in the Sun 7.5/10

One can count on the purveyors of all things citrus, Atelier Cologne to produce a fantastic bergamot scent. Bergamote Soleil is bergamot and orange mixed with a soapy, clean lavender and a touch of cardamom spice. Doesn’t last long, about 3-4 hours, with low projection, but this is a natural-smelling citrus elixir that I don’t mind topping up on a warm Summer day.

Atelier Cologne – Pomelo Paradis – A great grapefruit 8/10

The internet reliably informs me the pomelo is a citrus fruit similar in appearance to a grapefruit, only larger. It tastes like a sweet, mild grapefruit. Whatever it is, Atelier Cologne have done another excellent job bringing a citrus fruit into fragrance form. To me, this reminds me of a very well-done sweet grapefruit scent, if you like Guerlain’s Pamplelune you should like this. Perfect for summer, quite fleeting (4 hour longevity), but it comes in a 200 ml bottle, so spray liberally. It dry’s down to a well judged vetiver, amber base. It is one of my favourites from the house.

Frederic Malle – French Lover – Green, Green, Green 8.5/10

Green, green, green with Angelica, vetiver and galbanum, I use this fragrance all year round. Supporting notes of incense, spices, cedar and oakmoss hold things together and provide a long-lasting interest. I have the 10 ml travel spray for on the go spritzing, but it’s never really required as the fragrance lasts over 10-12 hours with moderate projection. Composed by Pierre Bourdon, French Lover is one of my favourites from the house.

Oscar de la Renta – Gentleman – Domino Disaster 1/10

Ah the perils of blind buying. The notes looked so promising, champagne, cardamom, grapefruit, oolong tea. Got to be good, right? Not so much, it’s most certainly a poor blend, smells cheap and synthetic, and I don’t pick up many of the promised notes at all. I get a sharp, lemon sherbet, that hangs around nauseatingly for hours. The bottle is cheap and plastic, and probably coming to a bargain bin near you. Avoid at all costs.

Have you tried any of these fragrances?