Penhaligon’s – Heartless Helen* – I honestly feel Penhaligon’s are investing much more time and money into the bottles of this “Portraits Collection” than they are the fragrances themselves. There are only three notes listed for Heartless Helen, mandarin in the top, tuberose in the mid and creamy woods in the base. It’s a sparse mix of Carnal Flower and Fracas. An overpriced, thin, bubblegum blend, that is mercifully short lasting. Disappointing.
Penhaligon’s – Terrible Teddy* – Things improve a little with Terrible Teddy. Much more wearable than Heartless Helen. I pick up pepper, incense, leather, woods and ambroxan. The ambroxan, for better or worse extends the life of the fragrance beyond 10 hours. The pepper, incense and leather dominate. It reminds me of a spicy, smoky, combination of Comme des Garcons Blackpepper and Avignon. Again, the price tag is ridiculous, and you’d be far better served picking up bottles Avignon and Blackpepper. Certainly not terrible, but not especially great either.
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau and La Belle** – Jean Paul Gaultier has also released his n hers scents. I prefer the women’s over the men’s in this case. Le Beau is a synthetic mix of coconut, tonka and bergamot that doesn’t really rise above the pack. The generic tonka dry down reminding me of a myriad of mass market releases in recent years. More akin to a drugstore deodorant than a fine fragrance. La Belle on the other hand is a more pleasing mix of vanilla, pear and vetiver. The vetiver note keeps the sweetness in check. It still isn’t overly inspiring though and becomes increasingly synthetic as it goes along. Both Le Beau and La Belle lasted 8-10 hours on my skin with moderate projection.
Have you tried any of these new releases? What did you make of them?
Note: Terrible Teddy and Heartless Helen bottle images courtesy of fragrantica. *Tested from a sample obtained by the author. **Tested from a bottle in store.