Out of all the designers, I think it’s safe to say that the Dior, Chanel, Tom Ford, Guerlain and Hermes exclusive collections are the highest profile, and accordingly receive the most love from fragheads. However, there are plenty of other designers out there that are producing unheralded collections that deserve to receive some attention. In today’s blog post I outline 5 designer exclusive collections and some honourable mentions that I think you should check out.
Giorgio Armani – Armani Prive
Hard to work out why the Armani Prive Collection is overlooked, perhaps it’s because the Armani regular collection is somewhat uninspiring. Whatever the reason may be, their exclusive line has so many great fragrances it was hard to narrow down to 3.
Bois d’Encens – Only 5 ingredients make up this simple incense composition. A peppery, spicy incense that I am reliably informed is worn by Mr Armani himself. If it’s good enough for Giorgio ……
Rose d’Arabie – Rose, oud, patchouli and vanilla make up this superb composition. This dark rose scent is masterfully blended and suited for colder weather. Made with quality ingredients and very much worthy of the price tag.
Myrrhe Imperiale – Smoky myrrh, with a touch of sweetness from amber and benzoin. A very classy fragrance, perhaps best reserved for special occasions. As with all the heavier Armani Prive scents, I enjoy excellent longevity and projection.
Victor and Rolf – Magic Collection
Relatively new on the scene, the Victor and Rolf Magic Collection’s first scent arrived on the scene in 2017. The collection now has a total of 8 scents. I first discovered them late last year and they are well worth checking out.
Dancing Roses – A brandy and cherry tinged rose with depth. It opens sparkly and sweet and gradually becomes boozier in the dry down. Excellent lasting power and very much cold weather appropriate.
Lavender Illusion – A beautiful lavender fragrance, wrapped up in blackcurrant and finger lime. Perfect for cooler spring and summer nights. A very different take on lavender.
Dirty Trick – Encapsulates what you want in an exclusive collection fragrance. This one is a little left of centre. Ink and iris and suede combine in this powdery, animalic, creamy concoction that is hard to describe. Just get your nose on it. Recommended for winter wear.
Van Cleef and Arpels – Collection Extraordinaire
Van Cleef and Arpels regular designer collection is excellent. Midnight in Paris needs no introduction. The Collection Extraordinaire has been around for a decade now and doesn’t seem to capture as much attention. I’ve found them all to be excellent scents. Here’s a few to check out.
Ambre Imperial – A subtle, sweet, gourmand creamy take on amber by Quentin Bisch. The tonka bean and vanilla dry down is superb. Reserve this for cooler winter weather. Superb longevity.
California Reverie – A fresh mix of jasmine, neroli and mandarin. The mid note of frangipani adds a tropical touch. An interesting sweet, sticky dry down of beeswax and vanilla. Take this one on your next warm weather holiday.
Bois d Iris – A creamy gourmand iris with woody undertones. If you can’t find Bois d’Argent by Dior, this is a suitable replacement made with high quality ingredients.
Elie Saab – Les Collection des Essences
The Elie Saab high end collection has been around since 2014. The nose behind the collection is Francis Kurkdjian. There are plenty of hidden gems to be found.
Essence No. 10 Amande Tonka – Almond, tonka, sandalwood and amyris comprise the notes in this delicious offering. Although not listed in the notes, I get a cinnamon vibe from Amande Tonka. Very much a unisex scent, that should be worn when the weather gets a little chilly.
Essence No. 8 Santal – Starts of a dry vetiver but develops into a creamy apricot / osmanthus, sandalwood dry down. If you enjoy Comme des Garcons Wonderwood you will like this.
Essence No. 1 Rose – I’m a sucker for rose fragrances and this one is superb. It gives me a cola vibe as it dry’s down or perhaps even Turkish delights. The note breakdown is Bulgarian, Turkish, Centifolia and Damask Rose. It also contains Rose absolute from Grasse and Turkey. High quality ingredients for a high-quality fragrance.
Ermenegildo Zegna – Essenze
Haitian Vetiver – Carrot seed, bergamot and neroli provide a fresh take at the top of this vetiver fragrance. It becomes more green and earthy in the dry down. Certainly one to check out for vetiver devotees.
Sicilian Mandarin – Zegna does their fresh scents so well, Sicilian Mandarin is no exception. You can practically taste the juicy mandarin as it develops on skin. Mint provides added freshness, and oakmoss an elegant dry down.
Javanese Patchouli – A well balanced dark patchouli fragrance. There is a touch of sweetness from tonka and some freshness from pink pepper and bergamot. Nicely done.
Finally, here’s some honourable mentions from houses I don’t have as much experience with.
Carolina Herrera Mystery Tobacco – A high quality sweet tobacco fragrance rivalling the likes of Tobacco Vanille. Tonka provides the sweetness in lieu of vanilla.
Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo – Patchouli and spices combine in this dark masculine scent from the Le Vestiaire Collection. Bourbon vanilla adds a slight gourmand touch.
Lancome Oud Bouquet – Sugary sweet, praline and rose oud combination that lasts forever on skin.
Cartier XI L’Heure Perdue – A beautiful floral vanilla from Cartier, with creamy undertones, somewhat like Guerlain’s Jicky.
Salvatore Ferragamo Testa di Moro – A dark, incense, smoky, suede leather combination that is ideally suited for colder weather. Very long lasting on my skin.
What are your favourite designer exclusive houses?
Note: Bottle images courtesy of fragrantica
