Chanel Sycomore EDP – Dry, Cypress infused Vetiver. 9/10
Vetiver is one of my favourite notes and Sycomore is one of the finest in the genre. I own the EDP released in 2016. Sycomore is part of the Chanel Les Exclusifs and it along with Bel Respiro and the Eau De Cologne are the most masculine in the unisex collection. I am lucky enough to have access to a Chanel Boutique that stocks the Exclusifs and whenever I checked into the boutique, I would always come back to Sycomore. I obtained several samples and went through a 15ml decant before eventually biting the bullet and purchasing a 75ml bottle in August of 2018.
The predominant note in Sycomore is vetiver and it is present throughout the 10 plus hour life of the fragrance. If you are not a vetiver lover, Sycomore will not change your mind about the note. The initial blast is dry vetiver with the ubiquitous Chanel aldehydes and hint of smoke in the background. The 2016 iteration of Sycomore is not as smoky as the 2008 eau de toilette. The sparkle of the aldehydes soon wears away revealing a heart of cypress, sandalwood, with the vetiver still humming along. It’s at this middle stage of the fragrance’s development that the wearer is transported away to a forest with hints of tree bark, dry grass and earthy green. There are no rough edges to Sycomore with a smooth sandalwood and vetiver rounding out the dry down.
Comparisons are made to Encre Noir by Lalique, but Sycomore is on a different level. In the competitive vetiver division, Sycomore always seems to dash down the sideline beat both centre backs and blaze the ball into the back of the net. Even at the price point, which will be a sticking point for some, Sycomore will forever be in my collection.
Quick Notes
Launch year: 2016
Perfumer: Olivier Polge
Notes: Top: pink pepper, juniper, aldehydes / Mid: vetiver, cypress, violet. / Base: sandalwood, balsamic notes.
Longevity: 10 + hours
Projection: moderate
Season and occasion to wear: all year round, best in autumn and spring. Sycomore can be worn for any occasion but works best in formal situations.
Price: 75ml, 285 Aud.
Alternatives: Budget: Lalique Encre Noir, Guerlain Vetiver
Alternatives: Fresh: Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire
Alternatives: Sweet: Hermes Vetiver Tonka
Alternatives: Outside the square: Etat Libre d’Orange Fat Electrician